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How to compare graphics cards properly

Comparing graphics cards is easy to do badly. Spec sheets are full of numbers that look comparable and are not. This guide gives a short method that works for any pair of cards, and shows where the comparison tool on this site fits into it.

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How this guide was put together

  • This guide explains a method and does not rank products. The comparison tool and the head-to-head pages apply the same steps with the site's own data.
  • A row in the comparison table declares a winner only when the gap is larger than 3%. Anything closer is called level, because the underlying indices are estimates.

The full site-wide methodology, including how the performance index and value scores are produced, is on the methodology page.

Step one: compare at the same resolution

Two cards can swap places depending on the resolution you judge them at. A card with a wide memory bus often gains on a rival as the resolution rises, and a card with fast cores can lead at 1080p and fall behind at 4K.

Pick the resolution you will actually play at and compare there. The comparison tool defaults to 1440p and lets you change it.

Step two: use a performance index, not specifications

Core counts and clock speeds look like the natural way to compare cards, and they are the wrong one. A shader or core is a different piece of hardware in each company's design, and it is not even comparable across generations from the same company. Clock speeds are no better, because what each clock cycle accomplishes varies by architecture.

A performance index, built from measured results across many games, summarises what the card actually does. Compare indices first and treat specifications as the explanation of the result rather than the evidence for it. The indices on this site are estimates aggregated from public review coverage, and each page labels them that way.

Step three: compare the price on the same basis

A price is only comparable to another price of the same kind. A verified street price against a launch MSRP is two different kinds of number, and a gap between them tells you about the market, not about the cards.

Look at the basis shown next to each price. If both are verified, compare directly. If one is an MSRP, check the live listing before drawing any conclusion.

Step four: memory capacity and bandwidth

Memory capacity decides how long a card stays useful, and bandwidth decides how well it handles high resolutions. A card with more capacity but a narrower bus is not automatically better, and the reverse is also true.

Capacity is the safer thing to weigh when buying for the long term. Bandwidth explains why a card performs better at 4K than its 1080p result suggests.

Step five: features, power and fit

Last, check what the card can do and whether it fits. Upscaling and frame generation support differ by company and change what a card can play. Board power determines the supply you need. Physical size decides whether it fits your case at all.

These do not change the ranking, but they decide whether a card is a sensible purchase for your build. The comparison table groups them so they are easy to scan.

Reading a verdict honestly

A comparison that names a winner in every row is being dishonest. Real pairs are mixed: one card leads on speed, the other on memory or price. The useful output is which card wins on the priority that matters to you.

That is how the verdicts on the head-to-head pages are built. They name a winner per priority, state the number that decided it and say when two cards are too close to call.

Common mistakes

The most common mistake is treating one number as the whole story: picking the card with more memory, or the higher clock, or the higher benchmark in a single game. Each of those is a real input, and none of them is the answer by itself.

The next is comparing cards from different tiers because they share a name. A smaller sibling of a product line can have the same family name, a different chip and a very different price, and listings that differ only in memory size can hide a large gap in speed as well.

Prices are the third trap. Two prices from different countries, currencies or stores are not directly comparable, because tax treatment, shipping and exchange rates differ. Compare like with like, or convert both to one currency and say so.

Finally, remember that board partners sell many versions of one card, with different coolers, clock speeds and sizes. The reference specification is a starting point, and the exact model you buy decides noise, temperature and whether it fits.

Using the comparison tool

The comparison tool takes up to four cards and builds the table described above: price and value first, then performance, memory, power, features and physical size. Each area folds open on its own, so you can read one topic at a time.

Rows where one card leads by more than 3% mark a winner. Rows where the cards are within that margin are marked as level, and rows where a card has no published figure say so instead of guessing. The biggest differences are summarised at the top for the pairs that have their own page.

Frequently asked questions

What is the best way to compare two graphics cards?
Compare their performance at the resolution you play at, then their prices on the same basis, then memory capacity, then features, power and size. Treat core counts and clock speeds as explanations, not evidence.
Can I compare cards from different companies?
Yes, by performance, price and memory. Do not compare core counts or clock speeds across companies, because the units are not equivalent.
Why does the comparison say two cards are level?
Because the gap is smaller than 3%, which is inside the noise of the estimated indices. Declaring a winner would claim more precision than the data has.
How many cards can I compare at once?
The comparison tool takes up to four, with the same table and charts. Curated head-to-head pages cover the pairs people ask about most.
Where do the performance numbers come from?
They are estimates aggregated from public review coverage and labelled as estimates wherever they appear. The methodology page describes how they are built and what they cannot tell you.

How to choose a graphics card

Most graphics card advice starts with a list of products. This guide starts with the four questions that decide which list you should even be looking at, because a card that is perfect for one build is a waste of money in another.

Is a graphics card price fair? How we work it out

Every card page on this site shows a verdict on its price: good, fair or expensive. This guide explains exactly how that verdict is produced, what it can tell you and, just as important, what it cannot, so you can decide how much weight to give it.

The best graphics cards right now

This page ranks every in-production graphics card CompareYourGPU tracks on a blend of performance, memory, features and efficiency. The ranking is computed from the database, so it changes when the underlying data does.

Or skip the reading: answer seven questions and get a recommendation with the reasoning shown.